2025 Pistol Light Durability Testing

I spent a small fortune on today’s best pistol lights to see which one is the most durable.

I have easy tests and hard tests. Mundane tests, and tests that require special equipment. I subject these lights to situations that your light never would see, so that we can know the extreme limits of each. We dreamed up the most extreme tests ever. I’m going to break some of these lights. Some of them won’t ever work again. But that’s OK because I have extras and can give them a second life.

Lineup

Here is our test field of 11 lights.

Light	Werkz or LowLightDefense Review Link
Holosun P.ID	https://youtu.be/x-veLG93S5c?si=4P71SHtRNBKzNIND
Modlite PL-350C	https://youtu.be/8x_-UtZXlWE?si=J1eI3HTt6HG4gESy
Nightstick TWM-30-T	https://www.lowlightdefense.com/the-nightstick-twm-30-t-budget-x300-t/
Olight PL-3 Mini Valkyrie	https://youtu.be/67U-1yfNVeU?si=sRXJkQuCeRWnIw5l
Sig Sauer Foxtrot2R	https://youtu.be/ilBBNhS-xF8?si=iBdTvErIA7RKP3i-
Streamlight TLR-1 HL	https://www.lowlightdefense.com/full-size-pistol-light-shootout/
Streamlight TLR-1 HLX	https://youtu.be/6ICvKqKT6dI?si=kvI9z8yWywyFW6zn
Streamlight TLR-7 HLX	https://youtu.be/Ne7pnWf-iKk?si=Z6Z6Lygr-3r8WUWN
Streamlight TLR-7 HLX Sub	https://www.lowlightdefense.com/streamlight-tlr-7-hl-x-sub-all-streamlight-sub-versions-compared/
Surefire X300-T	https://youtu.be/Ra2j0mo_5zU?si=OxASLT9WsuhBq0s1
Surefire XR2	https://youtu.be/9CCa4ZAJYeA?si=GZbYoEmNmT9x8_yF

Independent Testing

I am not sponsored by any manufacturer. For this test, I purchased 2 of each light sample.

Test Overview

The purpose of these tests is to see how tough the lights are. We’ve already tested each one (some multiple times) for output, so now it’s time to learn a few things about areas of physical vulnerability.

I have ten tests, and each one is worth up to ten points. If a light passes the test without issue, it will get 10 points. Failures will be graded on severity, as it relates to the test subject, giving the light between 0 and 9 points. If a light dies in a test (say due to water intrusion), then it will be given a second life. The last two tests are highly destructive, and lights don’t get a second life. Lights will only pass to test #10 if they survive test #9.

Let’s jump into it.

Vibration Test

The vibration table should uncover if any of these lights have fragile electrical connections or substandard build quality. This isn’t an easy test. Any loose electrical component could vibrate itself right off the board. I mount up the 11 lights. This table has a max setting of one hundred eleven. I set it there and let it run.

After a ninety minutes I stop the test and check the lights. All the lights still work without evidence of damage or issue. 10 points to each one.

Mist Test

The second test will indicate how susceptible the lights are to water intrusion from mist. But this isn’t just regular water; it is a saltwater brine, so intrusion could short electrical contacts. I load up all eleven lights, and start the test.

The SureFire XR2 is only IPX4 rated, the lowest of the group. So if any of the lights has trouble here, this will be the one.

Light	Manufacturer Water Rating
Holosun P.ID	IP68
Modlite PL-350C	None found
Nightstick TWM-30-T	IP67
Olight PL-3 Mini Valkyrie	IPX6
Sig Sauer Foxtrot2R	IPX7
Streamlight TLR-1 HL	IPX7
Streamlight TLR-1 HLX	IPX7
Streamlight TLR-7 HLX	IPX7
Streamlight TLR-7 HLX Sub	IPX7
Surefire X300-T	IPX7
Surefire XR2	IPX4

Here is what the ratings mean:

After running in the water mister, I check on the lights. All are running and show no signs of water intrusion. I award 10 points to each.

Fish Tank / 1 Foot Water

With two tests down, all the lights have survived, without a single failure. I’m hoping the water dunk tank will result in some failures or at least we’ll find some water intrusion.

I need to point out that two of these lights, the Olight Mini 3 Valkyrie, and the Surefire XR2, use pouch cells. These cell packs remove out from the bottom. Instead of being protected by carefully engineered o-rings and seals, these lights have batteries with seals around the contacts. These lights are usually not rated for submersion. In other words, I don’t expect either of these lights to pass this test.

I drop the lights into the tank and let them rest.

Once done, I check each light individually for water in the body or water in the bezel.

Unfortunately, the Olight Mini 3 had water intrusion, as did the Modlite PL350c. But they both still work, so they get 5 points. All the other lights get 10 points.

2 Meter Tank

It’s time to push these lights a little harder. Our 2 meter tank has killed lights before. Let’s see if it does so again. The additional depth has the effect of putting more pressure on the seals of the lights. I would expect that this will uncover any light that doesn’t seal the water out.

I turn the lights on and throw them in. If they turn off while in the tank, it’s OK. This isn’t a test to see how long the lights stay on, but a test to see if there is any water ingress or if the lights fail as a result of the immersion.

After minutes, I dump the lights out of the tank so I can check each one.

In this test, the Olight Mini 3 has died completely apparently due to water intrusion, and the Modlite PL350c has water intrusion but has survived. The Olight and Modlite get 0 and 5 points, respectively. The rest of the lights are dry and get 10 points.

G Force Test (“Rail Test”)

Lights need to stand up to recoil – both the internal electronics and the rail interface. The light should not flicker if subjected to significant g-force. The rail drop test simulates recoil by causing the light to stop suddenly. I’m going to drop each light 10 times to see if it stays attached to the rail and to see if it flashes off.

• Holosun PID: No flicker. No damage. 10 points
• Modlite PL350c: No flicker. No damage. Rail looks loosened. Could be user error. 10 points.
• Nightstick TWM-30-T: Flicker. No damage. 5 points.
• Olight PL-3 Mini Valkryie: No flicker. No damage. 10 points.
• Sig Sauer Foxtrot2R: Flicker. No damage. 5 points.
• Streamlight TLR-1HL: Flicker. No damage. 5 points.
• Streamlight TLR-1 HL-X: Catastrophic failure. 0 points.
• Streamlight TLR-7 HL-X: Flicker. No damage. 5 points.
• Streamlight TLR-7 Sub HL-X: Flicker. No damage. 5 points.
• SureFire X-300T: Catastrophic failure when overtorqued. Solid when properly torqued. Docked two points because Surefire doesn’t provide clear torque instructions. 8 points.
• SureFire XR2: Only noticed one, very slight, flicker, only visible after carefully reviewing footage. No damage. 9 points.

One note regarding “flicker”. This shows up either as the light turning off then back on, or it shows up as a momentary dimming of the light best seen when viewing at normal speed. When I reviewed frame by frame, it is a bit deceiving because the camera doesn’t show any frames of “zero output” for those lights.

Rail Drop

To test for direct impact, I’m going to bash these lights into the concrete floor. Repeatedly.

I clamp the lights onto a section of AR rail. Behind the rail is a section of heavy black pipe, which adds weight and inertia. I lift it up and let it fall 10 times.

The TLR-1 HL-X apparently has enough inertia in the switches for them to turn the light off. I probably should have also tried to drop the TLR-1 HL-X with the light off to see if the switches turned it on.

• Holosun PID: No flicker. Minimal damage.
• Modlite PL350c: No flicker. Minimal damage.
• Nightstick TWM-30-T: Some flicker. Minimal damage.
• Olight PL-3 Mini valkryie: No flicker. Some deformation.
• Streamlight TLR-1 HL: Some flicker. Minimal damage.
• Sig Sauer Foxtrot2R: Some flicker. Popped off pic rail. Flipped to new section of rail since we suspected rail was damaged. Light did not pop off again but continued to flicker.
• Streamlight TLR-1 HL-X: Light turned off after every drop. Minimal damage.
• Streamlight TLR-7 HL-X: Flicker. Minimal damage. Popped off when overtorqued, twice, but stayed on when properly toqrued with new rail jaw.
• Streamlight TLR-7 Sub HL-X: Flicker. Minimal damage. Popped off when overtorqued, twice, but stayed on when properly toqrued with new rail jaw.
• SureFire X-300-T: Exploded on impact when overtorqued. Stayed on when properly torqued with new rail jaw. No flicker.
• SureFire XR2: No flicker. Minimal damage.

The biggest failure on the bash test was the Surefire X300T. The screw broke in the same spot as it did in our previous test. This led me to think that perhaps I tightened the screw too much. The first test was at almost 20 inch pounds. The second was at 15 in pounds. The manual doesn’t state a particular torque but I thought to reduce the possibility of my error, I would hand tighten the screw and try both tests again. The light held together when the screw is hand tightened without any tool whatsoever. However, due to the lack of clear torque instructions, the X300T is docked 2 points on this test as well.

Similarly, I installed new rail clamps on the Streamlights that had an issue. I tightened to Streamlight’s spec of finger tight using a quarter. These lights also passed on the redo. They loosened up on the rail, and I did have to occasionally retighten, but they held up.

I think there is a valuable lesson here. Don’t be complacent with the amount of torque used when tightening your light. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation. For the Surefire, don’t overtighten.

Dust Tumbler

A number of us work in dusty and dirty environments, and expect our lights to continue working. I’m going to tumble the lights in portland cement to see if the dust intrudes into the body, ruins the switches, or otherwise makes the lights inoperable.

I drop the lights into the dust. Surely this fine dust will work its way into every opening, destroying fine electronics.

I expect the lights with protected electronic switches to do well in this test, but lights with the mechanical switches are likely to not fare as well. The lights tumble around in this powder mixture for a half hour.

I pull the lights out, blow them off with compressed air, and am shocked at what I find.

All the lights continue to work. Sure the switches on the PL350c, Streamlight TLR-1HL, and the Surefire X300T are stiff, but they do work, and loosen up after a few cycles. I wasn’t able to find any dust intrusion.
It seems that I’m not succeeding at getting these lights to fail. I need to step up MY game.

Temperature Shock Test

Hot and cold temperatures can be hard on lights. As different components expand and contract, internal stresses can develop and cause breakage. Batteries can lose their charge.

Because I’m having trouble breaking the lights I’m going to get a little more extreme here. I’m going to heat the lights to 140 degrees fahrenheit then cool them to below zero.
First I heat up the lights in our oven, with a dwell time of 30 minutes.

Then I take them down into our studio for cooling. Liquid nitrogen boils at -320 degrees fahrenheit. I pour the nitrogen into a pyrex bowl. I turn the lights on. I drop them in one by one. As the nitrogen cools the lights, it boils off, requiring me to add more. The lights are on for effect, but also for curiosity. I’m not sure what will happen. Will they short out? Shatter? Simply stop working? Let’s find out.

When the boiling has slowed significantly, I take them out and set them on the grate.

After the lights warm up, I’m surprised to see something develop. The mechanical switched lights with prime cells turn on. Dimly at first, but with increasing strength. I didn’t expect this.

I gently warm the lights up. After the lights are around or slightly above freezing, I try the other lights. It seems they’re not working. Did I finally kill them? I swap in fresh batteries to determine if the lights died or just the batteries. To my amazement, the lights work.

Again, this is great for the lights, but not so great for my testing. This didn’t separate any of the lights from the pack. I did learn something. If I’m operating a light at temperature extremes, I want to use prime cells. Though the recharageable cells did come back after a little more time and topping them up, the prime cells were the first to get back working.
All lights get a 10 for the temperature test.

Concrete Mixer with Rocks

At this point, it’s clear that these lights are well built. I had expected to see more failures by now. This is great if you’re a fan of any of these, but harder for me to find the standout performers. I need to push these lights further and harder.

Thankfully I have a test which is guaranteed to kill lights. I am going to load up a concrete mixer with lights and rocks. This means that lights will be falling onto rocks, and having rocks land on them. Repeatedly. Over and over. Pulverizing the lights into submission. I’ll be checking lights periodically and awarding points based upon how long they last. If I can activate a light without tools, then it keeps getting tumbled. I’m not testing batteries, so it’s ok to replace them to see if the light is working.

Round 1 (15 minutes in)

• Modlite PL350c: Gritty switches, but usable
• Holosun PID: Fine
• Nightstick TWM-30-T: Fine
• SureFire X-300-T: Lost battery door, died
• Streamlight TLR-1 HL: Fine
• Streamlight TLR-1 HL-X: Unreliable activation, dust inside
• SureFire XR2: Fine
• Streamlight TLR-7 HL-x: Fine
• Streamlight TLR-7 HL-X SUB: Lost two switches, died
• Olight PL-3 Mini Valkyrie: Fine
• Sig Sauer Foxtrot2R: Fine (though we didn’t pull it out of the mixer)

Round 2 (30 minutes in)

• Nightstick TWM-30-T: Lost switches and died
• Holosun PID: Fine
• Modlite PL350c: Lost one switch, but still works after I blew it out
• Olight PL-3 Mini Valkyrie: Fine
• Sig Sauer Foxtrot2R: Switches are a bit broken but still work reliably
• Streamlight TLR-7 HL-X: One switch gone but still works
• Streamlight TLR-1 HL-x: Still dead, but flicked on when you wacked it and when you pulled on the head
• Streamlight TLR-1 HL: Fine
• SureFire XR-2: Gritty but working, rear plate broke off revealing contacts that you can bump to turn it on.
• Streamlight TLR-7 HL-X Sub: Still dead, switches still broken off but can turn on

Round 3 (45 minutes in)

• Holosun: Works fine
• Modlite PL350c: Works fine after knocking the grit out
• Foxtrot2R: switches in rough shape but still working
• Streamlight TLR-HL: Busted lens, still working
• Olight PL-3 Mini Valkyrie: Still works
• Streamlight TLR-7 HL-X: Still works with one switch
• SureFire XR2: Works after a quick charge, switches may be broken but contacts are still working

Round 4 (1 hour in)

• Streamlight TLR-7 HL-X SUB: Still dead, works with rear buttons, entire rear assembly starting to break off
• Holosun takes a few cycles, eventually resumes normal operation
• Modlite PL350c: gritty but working
• Streamlight TLR-1 HL: lens broken out, died
• Foxtrot2R: After a ton of cycles, and bending the switch back, kinda, sorta works
• Nightstick TWM-30-T: Still dead, but now doesn’t even work with button
• SureFire XR2: Fine
• Streamlight TLR-7 HL-X: Still working with its once switch
• Olight PL-3 Mini Valkyrie

Round 5 (dust removed, 1 hour 15 minutes in)

• Streamlight TLR-7 HL-X SUB: Still dead, rear assembly entirely broken off
• Holosun PID: Fine, crunchy switches
• Modlite: switches very stiff, died but then working again, sounds like a pepper grinder, flickery
• Olight: Fine
• Sig Sauer Foxtrot2R: One switch works, then stops working, then starts working again, then stops working, so it’s dead
• Streamlight TLR-7 HL-X dead, until you swap battery, then alive again
• SureFire XR2: Fine

Round 6 (1 hour 30 minutes in)

• Holosun PID: fine
• SureFire XR2: took a few cycles but came back on.
• Modlite: second switch broke off, dead.
• Olight Pl-3 mini valkyrie: Fine
• Streamlight TLR-7 HL-x: second switch broke off, dead

Round 7 (1 hour 45 minutes in)

• Holosun PID: both switches still working, lens cracked and a bit oval
• SureFire XR2: died.
• Olight PL-3 Mini Valkyrie: still working

At this point, the test is done. We have our finalists.

Drone Drop

The two lights that survived the rock crusher test get rewarded with one more test. At one time we dropped lights off the roof of our building. That test is way too tame. This time I’m going to drop the lights from 300 feet. I’ll use the drone to take the lights up 300 feet, then let them fall onto concrete. I even attached a tail to the lights so they fall bezel first.
Each of the lights gets dropped twice, and it gets 5 points for each drop if it continues to function.

Cole and I rig the lights up, take them up 300 feet, and then try to get clear of the drop zone. It’s a little frightening not knowing exactly where the lights might land. There could be wind, and the tail on the lights could steer them in just about any direction. I don’t know about you, but I don’t want to get hit in the head with one of these things! My calculations show that they should be falling at about 95 miles an hour when they hit.

Assuming they hit concrete, and not one of us, I don’t know what to expect. Maybe the batteries will burst. Maybe the lens will come out, or the bezel be mushroomed. Perhaps the Olight’s battery will come out.

Let’s drop them and see!

The test jigs here comprise of a drone with a payload drop capability, and rails with fins on which the lights attach. This means that the bezels will drop straight down.

This test continues to prove how tough the lights are. Both continue working after both drops! The Holosun has visible damage, but still works reliably. The Olight also continues switching on and off. Since they both survived both drops, they each get 10 points.

Wrap Up

I struggled to kill these lights. Any one of them should perform well under normal circumstances. I did learn a few things along the way.

Number one: Not all lights are rated for submersion. If you want a light that resists water intrusion, then you should review the specs to ensure it is rated properly.

Number two: Even if a light isn’t rated for submersion, it might still work. The Surefire XR2 performed amazing in the water, even though it isn’t rated for it. Oddly enough, this observation is in contrast to my first point.

Number three: Especially if you’re clamping on an aluminum rail, clamp specs matter. The Surefire X300T and the Streamlight TLR-7 lights don’t like to be over-tightened. At the opposite end, the Modlite PL350C does like a lot of torque. If you’re working in a hard environment, or mounting a light to a rifle that gets well used, then pay attention to the torque specs for the clamps.

Number 4: Plastic electronic switches are ergonomic and good to resist water intrusion. However, they’re susceptible to breaking.

Number 5: All of these lights essentially ignore cold temperatures, dust, mist, and vibration.

Number 6: Lights with removable cells aren’t any less tough than lights that have fully protected batteries. That’s a bit of a surprise.

So, which light is the winner?

It’s the Holosun P.ID. This light has durable aluminum construction, aluminum switches, tough lens, and the battery is sleeved. The Holosun didn’t lose a single point in our testing, resulting in a score of 100. From a durability perspective, this light is hard to beat. My only knock against the light is the “press in” style switches. Otherwise, it’s durable and a good performer.

The runner-up is the Surefire XR2. This light was the surprise of the group. It consistently performed well. I was shocked that it kept water out of the battery contacts, which it isn’t rated to do. I was impressed that the battery was consistently smashed into concrete without any deformation on our rail drop test. There were times the battery was hard to remove due to dust, but it just kept working.

Completing our podium is the PL-3 Mini, another battery with a removable cell. This light doesn’t do well in water, but in all other conditions, it is quite durable.

Even if your favorite light didn’t end up on the podium, I wouldn’t despair. They’re all incredibly tough and I have personally run many of them in my daily carry. If you think the testing wasn’t fair or should have been improved, let me know in the comments below. I cannot reply to each one, but we will be reading them and may use feedback to improve tests in the future. Those who have watched our earlier video probably noticed a number of improvements including the “second life” option rather than strict elimination. I invested a lot of time and money into these tests and want them to be valuable, and fair, for all of us.

Do you have reliability experience with these lights? Have you put your light through the wringer and want to share how it did? Please leave a comment below. I would like to read about it.